600W High Power DC to DC Boost Converter - 12-60V to 12-80V Boost Module Board Step-up Transformer

I have two of these, each one capable of running and output 50V at 6A, 8ohms, 300W. Input, 32.5V at 10.5A. They setup nicely. It's best to setup the input voltage and input power capabilities first, (32.5v at 10.5a = 341 watts available), then set the output voltage with a voltmeter and the CV pot, with no load attached, then crank the CC pot down until the output voltage starts to drop. That means that you are running on Current Control. Then add the load in and with the load connected in, turn the CC pot up increasing the voltage to the previously set output voltage. That means that you have matched the output load to the output voltage and current of the converter. Ohms law, such as it is, example: 40v at 5 amps is a load of 8 ohms at 200W. If you want more current thru the load, raise the CV voltage on the output. If you want less current thru the load, lower the CV voltage on the output. The output power (wattage) is dependent on the input power (wattage) minus the efficiency. So 300W on the input at 90% efficiency will only give you 270 watts available on the output. If your load is 8 ohms, your voltage can only be a max of 46.5V at 5.8amps, 270W. You can never get more wattage out the back than the wattage you put in the front.

Drives Chip amps !

I benchtested this boost converter with different input voltages and output settings with my lab power supply and voltmeter. I took it to 5 amps input and it did not get warm. The output voltage was dead steady as I varied the input. There is no surge at startup, which inferior circuits often have. This unit + heat sink is bigger than I expected. It weighs about half a pound! Zero issues so far. I will be using it in a constant voltage setup and I don't intend to test the current limiting function. I'll update this review over time. For the price this unit seems to be a real bargain for the capabilities.

Where most reviews fail is lack of real details. Hopefully I will not be guilty of this myself. I purchased two of these units and both exhibited identical behavior.With a clean DC input from a bench power supply ranging from 12 V to 32 V @ 5 amps, this unit failed to be able to charge a small, 3200 mAh 32 volt battery. Regardless of where the voltage was adjusted on the PSU, this converter would send the PSU into CC mode at around 21 V (the unit would pull full 5 amp current so voltage could not increase further).The output of this unit was set to 33.2 V. Under load this would sag down to 30 V at a mere 2.5 amps output. Adjusting the current (CC adjust on the unit's board) failed to change the result.This unit is a complete failure. I cannot imagine a good use for it so unless you want a board with decent parts on it and you can modify it, I would certainly avoid this unit.I now am debating whether or not to keep the boards for parts or just return this junk.

Very well made EXCEPT power in and out connectors which are undersized (use Y connectors).Could not adjust voltage below input and adjusting current output raises the output voltage as well so that makes it useless.I need low voltage high current available input to be converted to higher voltage with reasonable high current output. This unit acted like a voltage controller only. My demands were for 80 watts output far less than the 600 watt rating including the efficiency level.

Current control is meh, but has been going strong, charging lithium packs for over 2 years now. Make sure to add a fan if pushing anywhere near it's max wattage.

This boost converter module is pretty beefy but it doesn't like batteries to be connected as an input. I have used 3 AC-DC sources to provide anywhere from 12V to 35V as an input and it worked fine. When I connected a battery to the input the unit fried itself on both the units I had. The LDO's or FET's or whaterver is heatsunk on the bottom almost immediately shorted the input to ground and killed the unit. I will try to replace it...again, and see if I can work around that issue.Edit:Turns out you can't work around the issue because the input current is limited to (or rated for) ~10A so if you want to get the full 600W from this unit you will need the 60V input, 12V won't cut it.If you use a battery, and the converter output power is set to more than 10A x input_voltage, the unit will pull more than 10A from the input and more likely than not brick your converter.

I use a relay on my van to power the unit when it's started. Set output to 28.2v since that's the max for my bank. Works fine, has charged as much as 40 amps (12v) to about 20amps to my bank, and tapers to a full charge.